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Annual Aerating and Over-seeding
Proper root development
depends on loose soil, especially when it comes to turf grass. Thorough
aeration of compacted soils is the only way to loosen soils without disturbing
existing turf plants. Fertilizers and pH correcting lime also reach
root zones easier when soils are loosened. It could take years to
correct the pH of compacted soil.
We depend on our aeration efforts to give us the results we deliver.
Fescue plants have a life span of 3-5 years so introducing a new generation
each fall is sound practice. Annual care in the form of heavy aeration
and light over-seeding will help keep your fescue lawn healthy and vigorous.
Some seeders employ
a method known as slit seeding. Slit seeding is a process by which
1/2" grooves are cut into the soil and the seeds are left to germinate
in compacted clay. This does not inhibit the germination process
but it does prevent the establishment of a deep root system, decreasing
the chances of survival and weakening the foundation of your yard.
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Basic Lawn Care Service Includes:
Early Spring:
Slow-release
balanced fertilizer, pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control
Late Spring:
Slow-release
balanced fertilizer, pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control
Mid-Summer:
Insect
inspection and post-emergent weed control, soil sample taken to check pH
level, lawn evaluation, aerating and over-seeding recommendations
Early Fall:
Slow-release
balanced fertilizer or seed starter fertilizer and post-emergent weed control
Late Fall:
Quick-release nitrogen fertilizer
Additional Lawn Care Services:
Brown Patch
Control: This service controls ugly brown patch disease. This
is recommended beginning in late spring until mid-summer while brown patch
is a threat.
Lime: Proper
amount necessary is determined by the annual soil test provided with the
lawn care program.
Grubworm
Control: Late summer service to control grubs after they hatch and
are actively feeding on grass roots near the soil surface.
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Dethatching
Removing excessive
thatch caused by mulching or side discharge mowers is a cultural practice
that will help control lawn diseases such as brown patch and help oxygen
reach the soil level. This service is commonly performed
prior to aerating and seeding and is only necessary for extreme situations
in fescue lawns. Weeds and moss can also be removed
while dethatching to improve seeding conditions.
Years of grass clippings accumulate
and cut off air and water from the soil. First we will employ the use of
a dethatching machine over the entire lawn. Then all of the dead plant material
will be raked up and removed.
The soil is exposed
between the growth of living fescue, ready to accept the seed.
Watering Fescue
Fescue needs approximately 1 inch of irrigation per week to perform its
best. Keeping mind that many factors and site situations will make that
figure fluctuate. The only way to determine how much you lawn needs is
to evaluate its performance and log irrigation efforts.
I
strongly recommend watering “days consecutive” instead of “ days alternate”.
By giving your lawn water on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, then off the
remainder of the week you will force water deep into the top soil. Alternate
days schedule only dampens the top layer of soil and allows a dry out period
between cycles. A good watering plan must start here.
Newly
seeded fescue needs a sprits of water everyday, twice a day is even better,
but only for a short period of maybe 5 minutes or less. All you want is
just enough to dampen the soil. This is critical yet simple with the
Rainbird
ESP LX.
Continue
this process until you feel that all the seeds have germinated and reduce
all irrigation by 50%. The number of possible configurations are many ie:
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Number of minutes per cycle.
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Killing
Bermuda grass
Almost all good landscape horror stories seem to have Bermuda grass in a
starring role. It creeps in to shrub beds, grows across pavement and pathways,
it creates yellow patches in fescue lawns in the winter. It even degrades
the integrity of asphalt by growing in it and under it. So, what do you
do? Kill it!
This grass has it’s place, but it doesn’t belong in the average home lawn.
Eradication can be a lengthy process, some times taking several years to
complete. Here are some control strategies that can be considered:
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To have your lawn in disrepair
for four to six weeks begin to kill it with grass herbicides in late July
and follow up the process biweekly until one week before seeding, A return
of the Bermuda grass next summer is almost sure, but you will have much
less of it. The process will have to be repeated.
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In late spring, early summer
when Bermuda grass has fully broken dormancy begin the killing process with
grass herbicides, monitor and re-spray as needed. Eradication in
one season is very likely and preferable.
Regardless whether plan one or plan two is best for you, there are some
cultural practices that should be employed.
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Since herbicides are not
effective when your target weed is in drought stress you should keep the
Bermuda grass watered during the killing process. Use good judgment about
how much to water. Don’t over irrigate, just keep it damp.
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After the effects of the
first spray are visible, dethatch the area and remove the debris. Re-growth
(and there will be some) will be easier to see and herbicides easier to
apply. Expect to re-spray on two week intervals.
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