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Al Cooke's Blog
Helpful information from the Agricultural Extension Agent, Chatham County


















08/09/2011

It's that time again!

In autumn, the practices of aeration, overseeding, dethatching and topdressing are important to cultivating a lush, healthy, green lawn.

 

Aeration & Overseeding-  aggressive aeration with state of the art equipment, top rated hybrid fescue blend.

Dethatching- to remove excessive thatch to help control brown patch and improve seed to soil contact.

Topdressing- organic matter spread out over your lawn prior to aeration. This effort will improve poor soils and encourage a deep root system.

We also provide these services

·         Lawn Care Program

·         Tree & Shrub Program

·         Weed Control for shrub beds and natural areas

·         Brown Patch Control

·         Proper pruning for trees and shrubs

·         Growth regulator for lawns and shrubs

·         And more. . . just ask!

We take lawn care to the next level. You don’t have

to settle for a “cookie cutter” program!

 

Over 25 years in the business.

Mention this ad for 5% off dethatching and topdressing this fall!

Put some color into your landscape!

We have been nurturing these lovely crape myrtles for 5 years in 25 gallon buckets. They are now ready to be a part of your landscape! They are a semi-dwarf variety. Orchid (10), watermelon (9) and pink (1) in color. They are between 7' and 4' tall.  Reserve yours now for planting this fall! Call Steve for pricing and availability.



07/12/2011

Japanese beetles have completed their life cycle for this year. Left behind are all of their ornery young'uns in the form of turfgrass root eating grubs. These little ruffians have an impressive appetite, not just now but in the spring as well. They will feed on turfgrass roots until they pupate into adults, the dreaded Japanese beetle in June. In our quest to grow the deepest lawn roots possible, these foes are not on our team. I submit to you how valuable a deeply rooted fescue plant is to our lawns. Especially now when the stress of summer heat and lack of rain are already working against us, as if to team up with the grubs. We can't stop the heat and we can irrigate to help our lawns. But we can kill a whole generation of turfgrass destroying grubs in one application. They won't be back until this time next year when adult beetles happen by to deposit their offspring in your yard again. Their life cycle makes them a more satisfying and simple pest to control. I have chosen a newer insecticide to battle this pest this year. Not any more toxic than others, this product will persist in the soil longer giving maximum efficiency. Also, the "water in" time is more flexible, however I recommend watering it in as soon as you can.Be an expert on grubs, go to http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/insects/white_grubs.aspx to find out more.

 

      You can call me to request this valuable and important service however I would like for you to e-mail me so I can record your address. I would like to be able to notify you by e-mail with reminders and landscape related advice such as this. Most of my customers are receiving my advice via e-mail and the response has been good. Everyone is enjoying hearing from me with commentary pertinent to their landscape, won't you please join them. Please be assured that your e-mail address is safe with me.

 



04/06/2011

 

      Mulch has always been a big part of our annual landscape activities. Necessary for controlling weeds, cooling the soil, retaining moisture and just plain looking good, mulch plays an important aspect of all manicured landscapes. Some of them can cause problems, too. The purpose of this note is to bring the ups and downs about mulches, from my perspective, to a thought process. I don't intend to sway your love away from your favorite look, since looks are everything when putting this touch to your landscape.

 

      Let's start with the mulch of choice for many: shredded hardwood. When this stuff burst upon the scene some twenty years ago, it was the answer to everyone's mulch woes. It wasn't bark and it wasn't pine straw, it was different. And it looks great. And it was cheap. Aside from being different and looking good, not much has changed with this product except the cost. Wholesale prices have quadrupled since the first time I bought a truckload. That is an economical problem, not a cultural problem. The cultural problem with shredded hardwood will turn into an economical problem through plant failure. Even though shredded hardwood gives all the benefits that a mulch should give, it has its problems…not related so much with the product its self. Many times when I am asked to give an estimate to re-mulch beds, I find a mulch layer that is adequate for the reasons we mulch. Commonly, in these landscapes certain shrubs are weak an un-impressive because the mulch layer is so thick and piled over the crown of the shrubs. Most times, I can tell how many times a landscape has had a mulch refreshing by looking at a profile of the mulch layer.

 

    Another problem with shredded hardwood is that the most desirable stuff is nice and red. The problem is not with the color…even I think it looks great. The problem is that the product is still green meaning that it is going to go through an aging process in your shrub beds robbing the soil of nitrogen. That's not good! When mulching, it's no time to "go green". If you must use shredded hardwood, your plants are better off with aged material. Goodbye red mulch, unless you buy the dyed stuff. You will notice that this will be the only mention of dyed mulch, (sigh).

 

     Shredded hardwood does compost down nicely after about three to five years, and that is a good thing. A good thing with sometimes bad circumstances. Shredded hardwood compost is especially attractive to earthworms and other mole food. Sometimes a good thing can be a bad thing and a mole problem in your shrub beds because of an abundance of composted shredded hardwood mulch is a perfect example of that.

 

 

     Pine bark mulches are great, unless your mulch areas are on a steep slope because they have a tendency to float. Larger piece bark is better than mini-nuggets in that respect. Large bark doesn't have the manicure appearance that many other mulches do, but it lasts the longest between mulch refreshings. Mini-nuggets are great for flower beds because it's easy to get a crisp, manicured look with the smaller particle material. Both, large and small , pine bark mulches meet my approval for the reasons we mulch, good looks and the best benefit is its longevity in the landscape as a mulch. Like shredded hardwood, pine bark has seen increases in cost, just not as dramatic.

 

    Pine straw, my favorite, is as near a perfect mulch as you will find. It doesn't have the draw-backs that other mulches have. It creates a great weed control and moisture barrier. It's nearly impossible to use too much. It stays in place on slopes after it has settled. It is also cost effective to use. There are grades of pine straw that are better than others. The pine straw found at the big box stores it of the poorest grade in my opinion. I won't use it. It appears to be cheaper by the bale, but the bales are smaller and lighter that locally harvested and fresher products. Pine straw and bark allow more oxygen exchange from the soil to the atmosphere, a necessary element for healthy landscape plantings. 

04/05/2011

 

     As we are entering the mowing season I would like to share some tips on proper mowing and its importance to maintaining a healthy stand of turf. Since most of the time spent on the over-all maintenance of your lawn is mowing, proper mowing will make a difference in how much fescue you will have left after a brutal summer of heat a drought conditions. The proper mowing of your lawn will become more important as we begin to see warmer and dryer weather.

 

     The proper height to mow your fescue lawn is four inches. Mowing shorter will continue to send fescue into decline. Frequency is also important. The goal is to not remove more than one third of the grass blade at mowing time. Grown out, that's just over five inches when it's time to mow again. Allowing the lawn to grow too tall has the same effect as scalping the lawn shorter than the four inch goal. Translation: your lawn will suffer. Especially when the weather is hot and dry and fescue growth has decreased. You should never scalp a fescue lawn, especially in June, July and August.

 

      Mowing patterns are important, too. You should change the direction in which you mow each time you take to the lawn with a mower. This is especially true for those with riding mowers. All of the extra weight travelling over the same spot, week after week, will compact the soil where the tires ride. This results in thinning of grass plants in that area. There are some areas in most lawns that should get mowing attention from a light push mower. I see this all the time. I use a push mower to mow my lawn and change the direction of the pattern with each mowing. Not only is that the best thing for my grass, but it also looks good.

 

       Bagging your clippings is preferable to side discharging. You can skip the bagging process if you mow often enough. In the spring when grass is growing quickly, mowing twice a week is what it will take to keep the bagger in the garage. Same goes with a mulching mower. There is something to be said about returning the clippings back in to the lawn. It provides nutrients  and helps build topsoil with the composting process. The downside is a thatch layer that can cause problems if its own. With that being said, the problems out-weigh the benefits in a big way. A lawn care program will provide all the nutrients your lawn will need and topdressing the lawn with a fine particle organic matter will replace a season's worth of returned clippings in one application. If you choose not to bag your clippings always rake up excessive piles and remove them to your compost pile.

 

       Other mowing tips are: Never mow a wet lawn, mower ground speed is important… slow down, it provides a cleaner cut and will reduce wear on your mower engine and always keep your blade sharp.

 

       I hope you find this helpful. Mowing correctly really does make a difference!

Summer 2010   

Along with all of the challenges of maintaining top quality turf, we must deal with the possibilities of mole damage. Over the years I have noticed that moles are populating and becoming as destructive as deer. Moles compromise the integrity of the soil and the vigor of your lawn. They also create risks of a twisted ankle in lawns and especially in sports turf. In North Carolina it is illegal to use baits to poison these pests unlike nearly the balance of the lower forty eight. We have to rely on methods that make the moles environment unpleasant to the point of unbearable. Starvation is another method of mole control. These methods will drive the moles off your property, at least temporarily.

 

   I was given a sample of “Mole Scram” at a trade show in January. I used it in my back yard where I had a very active and hungry mole. He moved to the front yard immediately. I am very impressed with this product and have the confidence to offer this application to those with a mole problem. Like other products that I have found to be effective, this is not a “one shot does all” product. It will have to be followed up with another application and should be a part of a rotation of products that will keep moles off of your property. Applications should be made not only to the lawn, but to shrub beds and natural areas. You want these critters to go away, far away. You can visit this web site to learn more about moles. Voles are covered there, too.

 

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/gaston/Pests/voles.html#control2

 

   If moles (or voles) are damaging your landscape, call us to apply one of the few products available to us to drive them away. Hopefully, one day, the NC Wildlife Commission will recognize moles as pests and we can use more effective products to protect our landscape investment.  

PO Box 5177 Chapel Hill, North Carolina 27514 (919) 932 - 3846 specscape@earthlink.net
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